PAN ASIA, MARGATE. We got blown in the doorway by The Beast from the East. Thankfully there is plenty to love in this land of the setting sun.

Margate, the land of the setting sun. 

The sunsets have inspired artists for hundreds of years, Turner being Margates prodigical champion famously remarked that the loveliest skies were on the Isle of Thanet with many of his sketches including Margates harbour.

Today I am at Pan Asia in Margate, a Thai restaurant which made the transition from a small restaurant on the other side of the beach front famous since lockdown for its take aways, to a much bigger restaurant in a prime trading spot opposite The Turner Contemporary and Margates historic harbour.

I had been a fan, for they did a spectacular take away, but my first concern was whether they will they fall foul of biting off more than they can chew.

It's the dream isn't it? Build a solid sustainable business, graced with a loyal fan base and glowing reviews. At some point you might reach terminal velocity, you can't go any faster or get any bigger, and that is a nice problem to have. The temptation of expansion lures you, more means more, but sometimes the opposite happens, well not opposite, but more overheads, more risk. 

You didn't notice the smaller bills in the leaner weeks when you was small, you knew what was coming, the weekend for one. 

But when you move to larger premises that isn't quite so conveniently positioned for your customers to nip in to collect their take-away, more big bills than small, now you are putting all your chips on red and spinning the wheel. 

I will go further and point out that the new restaurant space was previously bought and renovated by hospitality heavy weights Thorley Taverns, very much the same as their flag ship The Charles Dickens in Broadstairs. They named it The Hoy and it presented itself as a gastro pub. It lasted a while, but even the mighty TT finally admitted defeat and closed it leaving it empty for years. Then an Indian restaurant heralding from legendary reputation took it on, and so too did they disappear into the setting sun. 

I have to wonder if Pan Asia might suffer the same inevitable dark fate.

We make a reservation for 18:30. I had assumed I wouldn't need to book at all, my wife insisted. It is mid February so everyone is skint, it is bitterly cold, and Margate is as grim as post nuclear fallout Chernobyl.

Earlier in the day we get a call to confirm our booking, would we be the only ones there? Are they calling to see if it's worth opening I quipped.

As we get blown in the door way by The Beast from the East we find ourselves ruffled and blustered, but are now inside to find a gratefully warm, surprisingly full restaurant. 

A flustered but very smiley server greets us, she's all business and wastes no time in asking "have you booked?" She maticulously searches for our name and crosses our name off.

I glance at the Mrs who smugly gave me that look of "I told you so"

I'm wracking my brain like a computer performing a search, I can't think of anywhere else in Margate that is a restaurant with this many covers that will be full right now. There must be 100 seated. It is impressive, it really is.

There are at least 6 waitresses, maybe more. Well drilled and operating their sections with efficient skill. They are dressed with great care to detail in traditional Thai style clothes. They are all smiles and nothing is too much trouble. It makes a huge difference.

I scan the room, who are these people? It is a complete mix of couples young and old, large groups of the same. I recognise some faces, locals with a few quid. It's a great sign.

The menu is loaded with the headline dishes you know and love, and will want to try. Seven starter choices, and then mains divided into currys, noodles and rice dishes. The prices are pleasingly fair, you might have expected a bloated price point, to reflect it's location, but unlike it's noisy neighbours they deliver their food at prices you want to come back for. Very smart. 

Mains are all around the £10 mark, with a couple of dishes having seabass or duck for £14.95, fair enough.

But you already know what you are here for. Its the first dish you think of when you think of Thai food. 

For a restaurant whose pull is a few well recognised dishes it is important to remember that those dishes have to be the stars for quality and price If you fall short or raise prices because you think customers will pay more for less, you lose your audience, and the rotten tomatoes start flying.

First up

Chilli calamari. Described as a traditional fritter tossed with chill and garlic with a teriyaki sauce. These were in a batter which I immediately likened to a Chinese pork ball batter which can be thick and doughy, however unlike the Chinese cousin, this was crispy and flavoursome, the calamari was retaining a bite, but melted in the mouth with wonderful Thai fragrant flavours.

Moo Yang. BBQ pork in Thai spices with a tamarind sauce. Thin slices of pork with a charred BBQ crust delightfully spiced. The presentation was thoughtful, and although the banana skin served only aesthetic purposes, it serves as another nod towards its authenticity.

Both of our starters were talking points, each bite an opportunity to savour the individual qualities. You are overwhelmingly reassured that you are in good hands.

Next up the mains, and we went for 3. The obligatory Green curry, Pad Thai and Panang. No rice as there are noodles in the Pad Thai and I'm on a diet apparently.

Flavour Flavour Flavour and more flavour. This is what you came for. It really is the stuff of dreams. 

I refer back to when it was a takeaway. Back then it made you question why you ate anything else, and I am pleased to say that it has lost nothing of its godliness.

It is stunning, it is so good I am licking my screen.

Further top marks for personalising each dish to taste. Would you like it mild, spicy or hot? They take no short cuts, the customer experience comes first.

Finally, let's talk about the people in here that have a few quid. They are not here because it's cheap, well okay partly as that's probably why they have money, they don't like spending it! No, the smart money come here for good reason, they are here because it is bloody amazing.

HOW DOES IT SCORE

1) Is it to the expected standard?

It is delightful ONE STAR AND ONE BONUS STAR

2) Does it do something that you have always wanted to try?  

You will not be bored or disappointed ONE STAR AND ONE BONUS STAR 

3) Is it fairly priced? 

Unequalled quality, fantastic prices ONE STAR AND ONE BONUS STAR 

4) Cleanliness, including customer toilets 

Spotless ONE STAR AND ONE BONUS STAR 

5) Service 

Perfect and immaculately presented ONE STAR AND ONE BONUS STAR 

CONTRIBUTING EVIDENCE  

A) Does it have a clear and relevant identity?

Yes

B) Does it stand out for quality and standards?

Yes 

C) Is there areas of the business that someone else does better?

No

D) Does it diversify?

Yes it runs occasional promotions and meal offers

E) Will customers return without hesitation?

Yes

PAN ASIA 

10 Fort Hill, Margate CT9 1HD